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Ron
Patrick's Jet Powered VW Beetle
(yes it is street legal)
Over to Ron's Site |
Back to Tom's Comedy Central
Think how much fun this would be to deal
with tailgaters! All you would need is a sign that says “Keep Back
200 Feet, Not Responsible for Damage From Jet Exhaust” and then light it up and melt their
front end off of their car...wonder what he would get for a trade in?
Below is Ron Patrick's street-legal jet
car on full afterburner and his discussion on, why, he built it.
The car has two engines: the production gasoline engine in the front driving the
front wheels and the jet engine in the back. The idea is that you drive around
legally on the gasoline engine and when you want to have some fun, you spin up
the jet and get on the burner (you can start the jet while driving along on the
gasoline engine).

The car was built because I wanted the
wildest street-legal ride possible. With this project, I was able to use some
stuff I learned while getting my fancy engineering degree (I have a PhD in
Mechanical Engineering from Stanford University) to design the car without the
distraction of how other people have done it in the past - because no one has.
I don't know how fast the car will go and
probably never will. The car was built to thrill me, not kill me. That doesn't
stop me from the occasional blast on the highway though.

The car is licensed here in California. In California, new cars have bi-annual
smog inspections so if you modify the engine, it is likely to fail the
inspection and you won't be able to drive it on the street. There are some
exempt engine modifications (ex. after-cat mufflers - big deal) but none that
will allow you to add 1350 hp to a new car.

Car was built to look as if VW delivered the car this way. It handles fine and
is safe. I was thinking of putting it into an import car show but the promoter
told me that it looked too plain and recommended that I put some decals on it,
lower it, and put on some aftermarket wheels.
Sure kid, put on some flimsy wheels won't take a curb and don't center on the
hubs, lower the car so the tires rub and get cut by the body using springs that
bounce me all over the road, and advertise for companies that couldn't engineer
themselves out of a paper bag.
I would have thought the 14" diameter tailpipe was enough for him but I guess it
wasn't. Response from the hot rod magazines has been slow. One editor told me
that is because I didn't use anything they advertise. But the response to
driving it on the street and going to the hot rod shows (San Francisco Custom
Car Show, Grand National Show in Pomona, and the Detroit Autorama) has been
fantastic.
This car attracts crowds better than any '32 Ford, '69 Camaro, or decaled
Honda.

The Beetle was chosen because it looks cool with the jet and it shows it off
well. Remember the Hurst wheelstanding Barracuda "Hemi Under Glass"? Well,
this is "Jet Under Glass".
Air for the jet enters the car through the two side windows and the sunroof.
It's a little windy inside but not unbearable.

The production hatch release switch on the driver's door activates two new
latches (one on each side) and the hatch pops open just like a production car.
The "hatch not closed" warning light works too.

Here you can see the split in the tailpipe after a particularily rude burner
pop. All fixed and reinforced now. The heat blanket keeps the plastic bumper
from melting when the jet is operating.

The back of the gauge panel was kept open to give the car a techie look.
Something to talk about. The car's an engineering device, let's see some
engineering thingies. The aluminum panel was designed in SolidWorks and cut out
of billet, bead blasted, clear anodized, and then the labels for the switches
were milled into the front using a font matching the VW cluster.
Little details like the holes having flat sides so the switches don't spin and
exactly matching the contour of the dash added time to the project. Several
versions were made out of Styrofoam first to get the layout and lighting right.
From the back, the panel reminds me of the 1970s McLaren CanAm cars.

The first thing I did when I got the car was to cut the hole in the back for the
engine. Made a fancy jig out of a tripod, a rod, and a lawnmower wheel to mark
out the cut and went at it with a pneumatic saw. Then finished it off with
jeweler's files. No paint required. Didn't even chip.
The hole was tricky
because it goes through 3 layers (bumper and two layers of metal) and it's a
circle projected onto angled surfaces.
Just finding the centerline of the car wasn't trivial. Worrying what my
neighbors would say if I ruined the back of a brand-new car made me REAL
careful. I believe the hole is within 2 mm.

There are three gauges for the jet: %RPM, Oil Pressure, and Turbine Inlet
Temperature. The most important is turbine inlet temperature. If you exceed
about 650 degrees C for very long, you damage the engine. This is critical on
start-up. You don't want a "hot-start". The throttle for the jet engine is
located next to the gear selector.
It is a lever and has three buttons: Cool,
Big-Fire, and Afterburner. "Cool" leans out the engine and is used to lower the
turbine inlet temperature if you get a hot-start. To light big-fire or the
afterburner, you hold a button down and 1/2 second later, press the hot-streak
button on the floor. Then things happen!
Notice the kerosene level gauge in front of the gear selector (jet fuel is
mostly kerosene) and the bud vase missing a rose. Where did it go?

Lotsa stuff back here. The force from the jet is tied to the vehicle through
sandwich plates inside the car bolted to contoured aluminum billets that were
slid into the frame rails. You can see the billet on the left side with a hole
in its center, welded to the plate with 4 bolts.
Used helium as the inert gas and a lot of
current to weld that chunk of aluminum. To return the car to its production
height, adjustable spring perches were used. Same spring rate, just corrected
the ride height. Drives and handles fine. Kerosene is stored in a custom 14
gallon, baffled, foam-filled kevlar fuel cell in the spare tire well.
Two fuel
exits in the back: a -12 on the left side and a -10 on the right. The -10 goes
to a shutoff, then a Barry Grant pump (one of the few hot rod parts on the car),
then up into the car where it sees a filter, a regulator, and an electrical
shutoff valve before feeding the engine. The -12 goes into a shutoff, then a
1.5 hp, 11,000 rpm, 24V custom electric pump. Pump is magnesium and can
maintain 100 psi at 550 gph.
From the pump it goes into the car to a
filter, then a large regulator, and then to the afterburner solenoid and the
big-fire solenoid (to left of pump and feeding bottom of tailpipe through orange
covered hose). Fuel system was tested for flow capability.
Above the big pump you can see the relocated gasoline cap actuator and all that
black stuff on the right side is the stock fuel evaporative control equipment.
All circuits feeding solenoids and pumps have fuses, relays, kick-back diodes to
minimize contact arcing, sealed connectors, and use automotive wires of a gauge
giving a maximum of 1V drop over the circuit loop.
The engine is a General Electric Model T58-8F. This is a helicopter turboshaft
engine that was converted to a jet by some internal modifications and a custom
tailpipe. The engine spins up to 26,000 RPM (idle is 13,000 RPM), draws air at
11,000 CFM, and is rated at 1350 hp. It weighs only 300 lbm. It grows as it
warms up so the engine mounts have to account for this.
The mounts in the front are rubber and the back are sliding mounts on rubber.
The structure holding the engine was designed using finite element analysis and
is redundant. Strong, damage tolerant, and light. Second battery and
fuse/relay panel on the right, halon fire system and 5 gallon dry sump tank on
left. 24V starter motor is in the nose of the engine. 700 A of current goes
into that motor for 20 seconds during start-up.
Due to heat, must limit starts to three in one hour. Big screen is to avoid FOD
(foreign object damage). Jet keeps sucking the rose out of the bud vase on the
dash!

A lot of attention to details in the car. Note the aluminum block
holding/protecting the halon gas line, pull line, harness to engine, and oil
pressure line. Rectangular tank under inlet screen is for various fuel drains.
Note temperature gauge and shutoff valve for dry sump tank. 3 gallons of
turbine oil at $25/quart (ouch!). Two-stage PPG paint matching exterior of car
was used inside the car.
It is not easy to paint around a lot of bars, etc while crouched in a car, in
your dusty home garage, avoiding drips, and with your wife screaming that the
fumes will cause brain damage in the kids. Especially with two-stage where you
have multiple coats and critical drying times. Kids passed their grades so I
guess damage was minimal, but more importantly, the paint turned out great!

Street racing action. The other guy wimped out after a few "big-fire"
demonstrations. What you see in the picture is about one-twentieth the full
size of the fireball. Guy standing beside car had never seen it run before and
was smiling ear-to-ear throughout the show. Had I launched, I would have burned
him to a crisp. Well, live and learn.

We get this a lot. A police officer picking at his nose while trying to figure
out what to charge me with. Notice the hopeful anticipation of us on the
right. We're rooting for him and offer suggestions but unfortunately, the
California Department of Motor Vehicles did not anticipate such a vehicle so
he's out of luck.
Hmmm, the car has two engines making the car a hybrid so maybe we can drive in
the commuter lanes along with the Toyota Priuses.

The car was built in this garage. Paint, welding, everything except some mill
work. That's me standing beside the engine that is out of the car for some fuel
controller work. The orange line is for the afterburner. There's one on the
other side too.
Here you can make out the four rows of variable inlets/stators at the front of
the engine. Their angle changes with engine speed and is used to avoid
compressor stall. There are 11 compressor stages and 2 turbine stages. The
engine's pressure ratio is 8.3:1.
That's how you work on a jet engine. Stick it on its end. Easy to store them
that way too.

Here's my wife's Honda Metropolitan scooter. She wants it to go faster than 40
mph. So I have these two little JFS 100 jet engines and I am thinking how to
put them on the scooter.
Engines are 50 lbm each so weight is an issue. Will probably use air-start with
a carbon fiber tank of compressed air. That saves weight since batteries will
then not be needed.

Looks cool from the top. Will want to make aluminum housings to go over the
engines just like on a DC-9.

Mean lookin' from the back too. Should get the scooter going. On one jet engine
alone, this engine will get a kart up to 60 mph. Looks like I have a lot of
spare wire left over from the Beetle job to do the scooter.
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